 | Jeff says:
Our travel partners and we met with Gulbanu this morning, filled out the last few forms, and then headed off to the Ramstore, Kazakhstan's answer to Target. While near there, we finally purchased our access for internet and telephone, and also received a cellphone. The connections from over here aren't the greatest for international calls. The cellphones are near impossible, and the landlines have a lovely bit of delay. It's like talking on a walkie-talkie. But the internet works.
We bought two access cards for a total of about $110, and then wondered if we'd overdone it. Within a couple hours, we'd used about 20% of the first card. We'll budget now.
The mediocre news is that I *did* attempt to post photos to the site, only to find out that security measures to block file transfers were set up by...uh...me. Brilliant move. I am still cogitating about a workaround, which will probably entail begging my nominally-computer-literate mother-in-law to sit out on my porch while I chat her through changing some settings on my router. (For the geeks amongst you, this means that I forgot to pass port 21 through my router to my server for ftp access. FTP *is* on port 21, right? Or is it 25? Hmmm. Someone email me and let me know, please, so I can give my poor, computer-illiterate family the correct instructions to let me show you pictures!!)
We then headed to the airport. On the way there, our driver sneezed. He found my responsive "Budh zdarova" somewhat amusing. Dilnoza (our translator) told me that my Russian is good. Boy do I have her fooled!
Getting through the airport was interesting. The Almaty Airport is a small but recently-renovated facility, a paragon of marble and glass, fluorescent and neon lights. *Immediately* inside the main door is security. Everyone goes through security, whether they're actually getting on a plane or not. All bags, large and small, go through the detector. I loaded our nine bags on. They had a problem with one: the duffel that WPA sent us to bring to Uralsk. It took the four of us (me, Dina, our driver, and our translator) perhaps fifteen minutes to convince them that toys, letters, and gifts for children did not constitute a major security threat against the sovereignty and well-being of the nation of Kazakhstan. Oh well, "better safe than sorry" is certainly a wise perspective, I suppose.
Then we ran to the gate, stood in line for ages at the Air Astana check-in counter as people cut in front of us (which apparently is the social norm, and about which I therefore will not complain), and finally paid our $300 for 71 kilos of excess baggage. We were nearly the last onto the plane, and sat in the immediate final row against a lavatory wall.
The flight itself was an experience in multiculturalism. Although the equipment was a lovely American Boeing 757, the safety information in the seat pocket featured ten (read 'em: TEN!) languages. I think I used three of those just to interact with the flight attendants (at least one of whom spoke fine English anyway). We were surrounded in our seats by Indians, Kazakhs, and Russians, and our olfactory senses were immediately attuned to both the variety of hygiene practices employed by our world's diverse cultures, as well as the condition of the lavatory immediately behind us.
Actually, in retrospect, I think it
may not have been a lavatory, but the galley. Frightening, really.
They did serve us a meal on the plane, our choice between chicken or beef. (A relief! I had fears that we would choose between horse and something unpronouncable, untranslatable, and unrecognizable!) When we asked how they were prepared, we were told, "Chicken with rice, or beef...with...rice." Given their hesitancy, we thought the side dish they provided with the chicken sounded tastier than the alternative, so we went with that. The meal reminded me a bit of mom's cooking: a nice cream-soup-based chicken and rice casserole. Imagine that: mom's cooking on the other side of the world! I always thought it was her New Jersey roots that colored her cooking, but nope...it's the Slavic influence. Spasiba, mama!
And now we come to the Uralsk airport. If the Almaty airport is to be lifted up as a idyll of modern construction, its sister in Uralsk is a reminder of the idyllic life of the soviet citizen in 1930. I don't believe it has ever been renovated. It is a concrete box. We walked *around* it to go in the front door to get our luggage. It has a sign at the top that says (in case you needed help) "Airport." (No, really. Kinda like the 1980s craze in the U.S. with generics.) The baggage claim area has pretty much enough room for you or your bags, exclusively. Somehow, we and the Sheblers managed to properly associate our bags, our drivers, and an interpreter.
Phillipich, our driver, is a hoot. We were hoping to get him, actually. His reputation precedes him. His father is also a decorated World War II hero from around these parts. He's a charming older gentleman with a calm demeanor and a vehicle that makes a beat-up 1979 Datsun B210 look good! So much for the luxury cars of the ostentatious Almatians. Still, his car has almost as much character as he does.
As soon as we got into it, we reached for our seatbelts. He almost blew a gasket (his own, not the car's) with hand gestures and emphatic Russian. We got the point that he expected us to trust him. Not wanting to make an enemy, we complied. "PeelYOT," he said with a smile, pointing at himself, vaguely reassuring us that his experience having flown airplanes at excessive speeds during the soviet era somehow qualified him to maneuver us through traffic without harm. When in Rome...
The trip into town was fairly uneventful. It was almost 9pm, but we are far enough north here that it was still quite light out. We saw farmland, trees, rivers, more trees, etc. At one point, he gestured to his emergency brake and said, "Ah-see-yuh."
"Ah-see-yuh. Ah...ne panimayo," said I.
"Ah-see-yuh. Ah-see-yuh zdes!" and then, pointing across the river, "You-rope-uh," then, back and forth gestures: "Riga Ooral!"
The lightbulb was honestly about to illuminate on its own, but fortunately, I had Dina (with no Russian training whatsoever) there to let me know that we were now crossing the river between Asia and Europe. Thank you, Dina. Jonathan, if you're reading this, know that my Russian studies are therefore now about as effective as my civil engineering studies were while attempting to install the baby gates the other night. (To my co-workers reading this, fret not: I split an RJ-11 line this morning in order to be able to dial in and make these posts. Oooh...how...twentieth century!) ;)
Just before we reached our apartment, I noticed the big church in town, pictures of which I had seen before. I am very much looking forward to visiting it, and pleased that it is walking distance from here. We've since been told that we will have a chance to go sightseeing next week, to see both of the churches in town, and the beautiful mosque as well.
The apartment here also reflects the construction practices of a prideful people on the defensive from economic and political challenges. We guess that it was built in the 1920s or 1930s. The floorplan follows no rhyme or reason. The windows and door locks aren't necessarily quite in alignment, although the front door reminds me a bit of the entrance to a bank vault. One room in the apartment is fully furnished with someone's photographs, glassware collection, some clothing, and a vast library. It seems as if it was vacated in a hurry around 1955. We can identify neither its purpose, nor its reason for being here, nor the odor emanating from it. We won't be going in there much.
The lightswitches here are about two feet higher than one would otherwise expect. The bathroom sink and tub share a faucet. The washing machine drains into the tub, and is unplugged. It took me a minute or two to understand why there was an extension cord dangling from the wall in the middle of an otherwise blank hallway, until I matched up the lengths with the bathroom and realized it's for the washer. Both the bathing room and the toilet room are paneled with marble, or at least something that looks like marble, making them the nicest-looking rooms in the house. The toilet room smells a bit as if the valve between the sewer and the toilet was installed backwards. We immediately placed an air freshener at nose-level in that room, and it seems to help.
The kitchen, at least, is workable, and where conditions disappoint us, hospitality more than makes up for it: there was a loaf of bread, a hunk of cheese, and a bar of chocolate waiting for us on the table when we arrived. Though the meal was somewhat austere in terms of ingredients, we went to bed happy as opposed to hungry, ready to meet our little boy in the morning.
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 | Dina says:
Well, we made it! Our trip was long but uneventful. From the time we were picked up from my parents’ house to the time we arrived at our apartment, we had been traveling for 23 hours. We met up with two other families in Frankfurt- Zach and April Taylor from Vermont and our travel partners, John and Sue Schebler from Colorado. It was fun to be able to share the journey with them. Customs were no problem at all and I was pleasantly surprised at how clean the bathroom was at the Almaty airport. Kostya, our driver, and Dilnoza, our interpreter met us at the airport and they whisked us away to our apartment. I have to say it was quite surreal driving through Almaty at midnight with two strangers and just put our total trust in these people we’ve never met. But we trust them completely and are confident that we are in the best of hands here.
Our apartment is very nice in a fairly modern building. We’re on the fourth floor and were so happy to find out that there was an elevator in the building! We didn’t have to drag our nine (yes, nine) pieces of luggage up all those stairs! The first thing I did was take a shower, I didn’t feel so fresh and pretty at that point. I have to say that no shower has ever felt as that shower did last night.
We were picked up this morning at 9:30 to have our meeting with Gulbanu, the director over here in Almaty. I have heard and read so many wonderful things about her, I really felt like I was meeting royalty! She was warm and sweet and funny and professional and was every bit as wonderful as we were told she would be. Her office is very efficient and had all of the paperwork we needed to sign. She also gave us our airline tickets for tonight’s flight to Uralsk! Our travel partners, John and Sue Schebler from Golden, CO were in the meeting with us. I am so grateful to have such great travel partners. We had lunch with them at Mad Murphy’s Irish Pub and really enjoyed getting to know them. They will be adopting two infant boys, one is just a few weeks younger than Alex, and the other just turned one last week. We are all going to have so much fun!
The weather here is absolutely perfect. It’s about 78 degrees out and there is a delicious breeze. I was expecting it to be sweltering, so this is a very welcome surprise. We will be leaving for the airport at 5:30 for our 7:00 flight to Uralsk. I am so insanely excited to fly to Uralsk to meet my baby. This is just almost too much to bear. Thank you all so much for your wonderful messages. I am overwhelmed with the love and support we have from all of you.
By the time I write my next post, I’m hoping to have met Alex for the first time. I know you are all waiting (not-so) patiently for that special update. We will update just as soon as we can, and can’t wait to continue reading all of your messages to us.
Please know that you are all in our hearts and we can’t express how much you all mean to us. It is because of all of your love and support that we were able to make this journey of a lifetime happen.
Until tomorrow,
Dina |
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Comments for August 11
Comment from
marlee and lee cutler | Hi Dina and Jeff,
Glad to see you made it to Almaty and sounds like you are off to Uralsk. We can't wait to see Alex's picture... We will be watching, and thanks so much for sharing your journey with us.
Best Wishes,
Marlee and Lee Cutler
WPA waiters | Comment from
Jess | Yay! I'm glad to hear that the trip over there went well! Hopefully, you're able to get a little sleep and relaxation in before meeting Alex. Also, there are subliminal messages in here to post lots of pictures of the little guy. ;) You're in my thoughts, and my poor husband, who only knew vague things about you until recently, is getting up-to-the-minute updates. ("They made it safely to Kazakhstan!" "Okay, dear, that's good. Did you think they weren't going to?" "Well... no, but I'm glad they did!") | Comment from
Melanie | I'm going INSANE waiting!!!!
Jeff's about to leave for the worship conference in Baltimore, but he's taking the cell phone and I plan on calling him the second I see you've got the baby!!!!
| Comment from
Amanda Hoelscher | Have a great time in Uralsk. Tell everyone "hello" for me! We were at BH#1 April 2003 and I was back with the playground group in June. You will love Assia and Masha and Olga and all the drivers.... If you get pics developed there, give some to the drivers... they all carry their family pics with them. Eat at the Golden cat.... great shashlik and the salads from the market ROCK! You'll love the kids at Zhas Dauren as well... can you drop me a line if you get to go to the pre-school orphanage... I have a favor to ask of you!!!! Best wishes!! Amanda Hoelscher | Comment from
Cynthia Schultz | Say "hello" to Kostya from Cynthia and Leon! He's a darling and always eager to help you out.
The music is...well...his favorite stuff. At least you weren't treated to the rap stuff with all the profanity. Kostya was mortified when I finally told him I hoped he wasn't learning english from that music :)
Glad you arrived safely. Only one more, three hour trip before you meet your child! | Comment from
maggie clermont | I just saw Kai's picture on the Taylor's site and cried like a baby...can't wait for you two to make me cry, too!
| Comment from
Nana Nina | I just won't be able to keep this up. I keep posting on the wrong day!
Dina ~ I can't even imagine how you must feel. You're really riding on an emotional high. What fun. I wish I were there with you to experience all this.
This is such an amazing website ~ did you design and implement it, Jeff? That college education finally paid off, huh?
Love,
Mom | Comment from
Yiayia Connie | OK, it is good to hear from you guys. Very relieved that your long trip is almost over, and things have gone so well. Now we can't wait for the moment we are all waiting for.....to see Alex. Our hearts and minds never leave you for a second. Love you very much and hope that you will have a nice apartment in Uralsk and a very enjoyable time. Waiting anxiously to hear more from you. | Comment from
Jeddo Fawaz | Thank God! Thank God! Thank God! We were so relieved to speak with you and hear that all went well. Your messages are most wonderful and satisfying to anxiety. Please keep writing (for us of course, but more importantly for you and Alex to read in few years). i recommend writing about your feelings and impressions right away to capture the essence of the moment. I love and miss you a great deal. May God be and stay with you always. | Comment from
Andrew | Glad you both arrived safely. Will be following your travels.
Andrew | Comment from
Tesa | Praise God for safe travels! Its hard to believe that the time has finally arrived for you to meet your SON!! Dave and I are thrilled for you guys! The adventure of getting to this point is almost over, but the real adventure of parenthood is just beginning! God bless!
Tesa | Comment from
Janet Ball | I am so glad you are over there safely and that everything has been a breeze so far!! I can't wait to see pictures and hear all about your new Son!! Please know you are in my thoughts and prayers!! :o)) | Comment from
Katherine | 'Cmon, 'cmon, 'cmon . . .
It's 4pm August 11 here, and we've had no August 12 dispatch!
You must be very busy . . .
| Comment from
Amy Murphy | You ar e so close to holding your son for the first time. We can't wait for the first family portrait!
Thanks for sharing this with us all.
Amy and Robert Murphy, WPA waiters in Albany | Comment from
Auntie Julie | Thought you two would like to know that the high temperature in Livermore today was 102. That'll really make you appreciate the nice weather you've experienced! I'm afraid I'm just going to boring and echo all of the sentiments that everyone else has already expressed...Thank God you made it safely...We are so grateful things are going smoothly...We love you dearly and miss you a ton...now LET'S GET SOME PICTURES POSTED!!! I'm waiting patiently.
love,
Julie | Comment from
Deltamiss | Well, I've stayed up waaaay past bedtime hoping for an update. But, hey! I understand. I know you are in a tizzy! We are, too. I'll check again at 5:00 A.M. on OUR Thursday. God bless you all! | Comment from
gramps | So thrilled all goes well. I can't wait to see pictures of our newest member of the holton clan. Much love safety and enjoyment as you continue your sojourn into becoming a family of your own.
Love,
gramps (Dad Holton) | Comment from
Melanie | Good LORD, people!! Hurry up!!! :D | Comment from
Susan | Hey Jeff and Dina-
I kept trying to be one of the first to leave you a message, no such luck. And I thought I was a night-owl! You will love Uralsk, tell them all that I said Hello and please tell Masha to ANSWER her emails once every few months.
Seriously, I am dying to see new pictures of that face, it seems like only yesterday we were looking at him for the first time!
All my best-
Susan | Comment from
Pete and Nadine Gumas | Dina and Jeff,
Pete and I are following your journal of your wonderful journey. We are so excited for you! Glad to hear that everything went well with your flight and that the apartment is nice. God be with you and bless you (actually sounds like he already has.)
Nadine and Pete | Comment from
Mairesue | I am so glad that everything is going so smoothly. Like everyone else I am dying to see li'l Alex in the arms of his Mom and Dad.
This is so exciting..
| Comment from
Nana | So, I waited around my office until almost 10 PM in the hopes that something would have happened by now ... But I guess you must have serious jet lag, huh?
So, goodnight. I'll talk to you tomorrow, when I hope that I'll be able to see pictures of little Alexander.
Love you ~
Nana | Comment from
April & Zachary Taylor | Hey guys,
just seeing how you are doing. We were so happy to meet up with you in Frankfurt. Can't wait to hang with you and our babies in Alamaty next month! Hurry up and post some pictures of Alexander!! We are waiting with baited breath! Hope your flight north was uneventful.
Lots of love,
April & Zach Taylor
Taldy-Korgan, Kaz | Comment from
Jeff | BATED, April. BATED! :)
Will post pics next time i dial in. It's 7pm in Uralsk right now on the 12th. It's 9pm where you are, right? | Comment from
Nancy Burns | Hi Dina and Jeff,
It sounds like you are in the same apartment we were in this past Feb-March. Are you behind a blue building on Dostyk Street? Is there a little picture of a boy and girl eating ice cream on the wall in the living room?
Did you get the Robeez I sent (and some pictures) before you left? Our driver was Igor, who is Phillipiche's son. He has a Mercedes! I was excited to read that you hauled the duffel bag for the kids at Zhas Dauren - that was one of the high points of our trip - handing out letters to the older kids.
I hope you are having a fantastic time, we had a blast and found our perfect son at Babyhouse #2.
Nancy Burns (and Mark Bever) Cincinnati | Comment from
Melanie | You finally comment and it was to correct someone's SPELLING???!!!
Good greif!
Now get back in here with pictures of that baby!!! | Comment from
Nana | Well, I guess I spoke too soon. I arrived at work thinking that Jeff hadn't made any journal comments, but I was sure wrong. Thank you, Jeff. Now I know all about Uralsk. You could band up with Aunty Gail and go into the tourism business.
By the way, what is the hot sauce for? To put on the contents of the green jar?
Love,
Mom
P.S. Like everyone else, Dad and I are waiting (not-so-patiently) for photos of the reason for the trip!!!!!! | Comment from
Jess | I'm so glad that the picture issue has been resolved! You've seen Alex by now, which must be just incredible--I'm so happy for you!
(Of course, I'm also one of those who would kind of like to see pictures of the little guy...) | Comment from
Auntie Julie | Hi Jeff.
I am loving your descriptive and highly amusing prose. We are all so grateful that you have abundant time to spend at your keyboard. It is to all of our benefit! I spoke with the Master Geek and he suggested that you post the pics on your homepage instead, and just create a link from the website, which would be a very easy workaround without having to rely on my mom's technical "skills" (sorry mom). What do you think? We are all so anxious to see what he looks like here, so let's get crackin'!
Dina,
It was so wonderful to hear your voice on my voicemail, but I was SO disappointed to have missed your call! I got all the scoop from mom. I was pleased and not at all surprised to hear that your superb motherly instincts kicked right in to calm little Alex down so much that he didn't want to leave your arms! Jeff must be patient... Alex will come around I'm sure. Can't wait to hear more!
MIss you and love you!
Julie | Comment from
Thea Evonne | I love reading your impressions of everything and seeing the pictures. What an adventure! Tell Jeff to be patient little Alex will get used to him too. He's so precious -- can't wait to meet him. | Comment from
Joanna | I wish I had time to read all your notes! You are hysterical Jeff! But unfortunately I have to sneak on at work. So sneak some kisses to Alex and each other! He's so cute! I'm so excited! |
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